Friday, October 10, 2008

Au Revoir Collonges au Mont d'Or, Bonjour Les Roches de Condrieu, River Rhone - Thursday 9th October, 2008









Well, what can words can we use to describe Restaurant Paul Bocuse - formidable, magnificent, les chiens ballons, extravagant - that about sums it up.
In the most appalling rain, we arrived at 8pm and were met by an immaculately dressed Doorman in a Pillarbox Red Hat and Cape. He took our jackets and we were shown to a beautiful table inside. We had taken our camera to take pictures of the food and interior, but felt it would not have been etiquette to do so!
The menus arrived, huge A3 size, with lamination, gold foil blocking, you name it, and we ordered an aperitif to start with - Jim, a glass of Sancerre, me a vodka and tonic.
The choice was unbelievable - A la carte, Menu Grande Tradition Classique, Menu Bourgognoisse or Menu Classique. We decided to go for the Menu Classique which was 3 courses plus cheese plus coffee and petit fours.
We ordered for starters - Crayfish in Pouilly Fuisse (J) and Mussel Soup (I), followed by - Fillet of Beef Rossini served with Pan Fried Foie Gras and Mushrooms (J&I). Then the cheese course followed and to finish it was a choice of all the desserts.
The dining room was remarkably furnished with beautiful paintings, and set out with little personal alcoves. The service was outstanding, neither Jim or I have ever had service like it, this is the first time in a huge number of years that we both felt almost nervous in a restaurant, the standards were so high. The cutlery was silver, all monogrammed and the crockery was so splendid with little hares and birds hand painted around the rim with the Restaurant’s name at the top. Even the wine glasses were etched with the name and an etching of the Chef.
An appetiser of Cream of Pumpkin Soup was served, in tiny little cups and then our Entrees followed - Jim wouldn’t let me taste his Crayfish and he said it was so very different and wonderful. My Mussel Soup was full of cream, huge Mussels, and I could taste fresh Tarragon - the best soup I have ever tasted. The waiters served the soup from a huge personal silver tureen at the table - such class. We then had our Main Course, impeccably presented, with 3 tiny Roast Potatoes, Fillet of Beef on top, Foie Gras next and on the very top a mushroom. The meat was perfectly cooked, succulent and everything else on the plate was just outstanding. After a break (!) we were presented with the cheese board or should I say cheese drawer…….there must have been about 50 cheeses to choose from, I declined any, but Jim couldn’t resist and had 4 different ones which were incredible. Then, it was onto Dessert, and we were served with a pre-dessert of a little cup full of chocolate cream (I had to leave this as by now I was so full) and then they brought three tray loads of Desserts for us to choose anything and everything we wanted. There was Tarte Tatin, Chocolate Cake, Rhum Babas, Crème Brullee, Paris Brest, Pineapple flambéed in Cognac, Sorbets, Ice Cream, Fresh Fruit, you name it, it was there. I plumped for some fresh strawberries, only because it was included, not because I needed it, and Jim had Raspberries, Strawberries and Blueberries in a Beaujolais juice. Again, it was all so perfect!
What a wonderful evening, the setting, the ambience, the service, the food, everything was just so impeccable, so if you are ever in the Lyon area, this place is a must! His 3 Michelin Star status is well deserved.
We set off this morning at 10am, heading for Les Roches de Condrieu, in thankfully overcast but dry conditions. We sailed through Lyon and South towards our first huge sea lock with an 11m drop. All the locks on the mighty Rhone are huge with floating bollards, so no sweat! We locked through and continued downstream with the current enhancing our speed by 1.5 knots. The next lock had only a 6m drop, and again we locked through easily with no delays.
As we approached Les Roches de Condrieu, the sun peeped out. The marina is in a lovely hillside setting with good facilities.
Les Roches de Condrieu is 45’27’.314N 004’46’.391E and we travelled 25.49nm today. We will relax here a couple of nights and then head further South.


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